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Cucumbers can be a star of summer dining

Summer can be brutal when the thermostat climbs into the 30s. During these long, hot days we crave a reprieve from the heat - something light, something to cut through the grease of a burger, something that is just, well ... refreshing.

Summer can be brutal when the thermostat climbs into the 30s.

During these long, hot days we crave a reprieve from the heat - something light, something to cut through the grease of a burger, something that is just, well ... refreshing.

Enter the cucumber, one of the most prolific fruits to grow in B.C. at this time of year. A member of the gourd family Cucurbitaceae (try saying that five times fast), the cucumber is a creeping vine that roots in the ground. Botanically speaking, it's classified as an accessory fruit, and much like tomatoes and squash, cucumbers are often thought of, prepared and eaten as vegetables.

At about 90 per cent water, the cucumber is refreshing and has a subtleness of flavour that other fruits and veggies simply don't have. Combine all that with its crunchy texture, and who says the cucumber has to be humble? In fact, it can easily be elevated into a key ingredient in many different dishes.

The following recipe is for Szechuan pickled cucumbers. If you can find some at a local farmers' market, grab as many as you can carry; if not, storebought cukes work just as well but tend to have a tougher skin.

Szechuan peppercorns can be found in most grocery stores, the flavour they bring is mainly aromatic but there is a tingly numbness on the palate similar to cloves. Store them in mason jars or any other airtight container.

These tasty, crunchy pickles are great on burgers, as an accompaniment to cured meats and cheese, or even added to a stirfry at the last minute. At Wild Rice we serve these tasty gems at dinner time with our local Coho Salmon Tartare finished with a sweet soy drizzle and crunchy wonton crisps.

Szechuan Pickled Cucumbers 4 cucumbers 2 Tbsp. sea salt

1/2 cup canola oil

2 small dried chilies

1 large knob of ginger, cut into fine strips

1/3 cup rice wine vinegar

4 Tbsp. brown sugar

1 Tbsp. Szechuan peppercorns, roasted and ground

Cut the ends off the cucumbers and halve. Scrape out all the seeds and cut each half into half-inch blocks, then into batons. Place into a bowl, sprinkle

with salt, and leave to stand for an hour. Squeeze the water out of the cucumbers and pat dry with a paper towel.

Heat the oil in a pan,

then add the ginger and chilies. Once the ginger has started to caramelize, remove from the heat and add vinegar, brown sugar and ground Szechuan peppercorns.

Place in an airtight container and let cool. These will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.

Before attending culinary

school, Todd worked his way up the ranks of a traditional Cantonese kitchen in his native Australia. Since then, he's cooked his way around the globe - from fine dining

restaurants to pubs - and now calls the kitchen at Wild Rice home. Find him at River Market, at 810 Quayside Dr., 778-397-0028, wildrice vancouver.com.