Skip to content

Early tourists found beauty on the Fraser

Afull room of people at the library recently enjoyed a presentation of current information about local tourism by Tej Kainth, executive director of Tourism New Westminster, mixed with historical tourism examples from Archie Miller.

Afull room of people at the library recently enjoyed a presentation of current information about local tourism by Tej Kainth, executive director of Tourism New Westminster, mixed with historical tourism examples from Archie Miller. Something that generated much interest was how early in our history "tourists"

arrived. Messrs. Milton and Cheadle, who decided in the 1860s to go on a pleasure trip across North America, travelled from the St. Lawrence River to the Pacific Coast, and Dr. Cheadle wrote all about it in a diary. In this journal there are some interesting descriptions of the lower Fraser River and New Westminster, among many other observations.

In September of 1863 they travelled down the Fraser to New Westminster on the sternwheeler Reliance, Captain William Irving at the helm. They noted the change in the river from Yale to Hope, the surrounding mountains, and later the site of Fort Langley. "By dark we arrived at New Westminster and went to the Colonial." (The Colonial was a prominent hotel.)

Cheadle wrote, "New Westminster stands on rising ground above the river, amidst the densest forest, which has cost fortunes to clear away. ... It is finely placed and will be a pretty place in time. A deep bay of river forms a suitable harbour, and the town is extremely well laid out by Colonel Moody. Engineers' camp about one half mile along river. Substantial buildings. Church and barrack rooms, etc. Colonel Moody's house very prettily situated."

On another day the pair was off to Victoria where, at the St. George Hotel, they were introduced to the Colonel and learned of his propensity to describe and promote the efforts of the Royal Engineers at some length. We read: "... introduced to Colonel Moody, a gentlemanly old bird who treated me to a full and complete history of the colony, resources, etc. lasting about one and a half hours."

A few days later they returned to the Mainland and enjoyed a view familiar to thousands each year who cross the Gulf of Georgia: "Magnificent view of Mount Baker, large conical mountain covered with snow apparently three quarter way down, in American territory."

There is also a delightful description of early city life. While they were waiting in New Westminster for an upriver steamer, "we walked over to the Engineers' camp to call on Colonel Moody whom we found in his office and just about to walk over to New Westminster to look after the sale of some town lands by auction which was to take place today." A glimpse of everyday life in the 1863 town - walk to visit, to meetings, to business.

The diary includes many such descriptions as Milton and Cheadle crossed "Canada."

A side note to the land auction is that Milton bought seven lots in the area, which probably accounts for the street name "Milton" in today's Brow of the Hill neighbourhood.