Like a good spring house cleaning, a thorough pruning can make your garden look clean and fresh at this time of year.
The problem for many folks, however, is knowing what to prune and how far back to prune it. Well, the art of pruning is 90 per cent common sense and observation and 10 per cent experience and knowledge, acquired by simply getting out and doing it.
Many good books and websites on the subject are available, but you can also look for a local class to take part in to learn valuable techniques in-person.
The first thing you need to know is the type of pruning equipment to use. Hand shears are the most useful garden tool you can have. It really does not matter whether you purchase the scissor type (sometimes called 'bypass' shears) or the anvil type. My advice is to get a good quality pair for which you can purchase replacement blades. A lot of very inexpensive models are out there, but in my experience, they just do not stand up.
Quality, medium to high-priced shears will pay for themselves many times over.
Remember too: shears are only meant for smaller branches, usually 3/8 inch (6 mm) or less in thickness. Unless it is very soft wood, once you get into thicker branches you really should be using two-handed loppers.
Loppers, like shears, are available in the bypass or anvil styles, and in all price ranges. My comments on quality apply here, too. Make sure the loppers you purchase have replaceable blades, or are made of drop forged, quality steel which can be sharpened Loppers can be used for branches up to 1-1/2 inches (3.5 cm.) in caliper.
For large branches, you need a good pruning saw. You can purchase either straight or curved blades, depending on personal preference. Some types fold in for convenience, while others come with handy sheaths that fit on your belt. The key to a quality pruning saw is good steel and well-designed teeth with serrations in opposite directions. This is especially important for cutting green, wet wood.
If you have massive evergreen plantings, you may choose to purchase a good electric trimmer. Electric ones are only effective on standard cords up to 100 feet long. With only a few evergreens, you will find two-handled grass clippers the best bet. As long as you stay in the softer growth from the previous season, these will do the job nicely.
If you are the proud owner of tall trees with even taller branches that elude you with a ladder. There are many professional tree services in our community who have the equipment to deal with large trees safely, so consider reaching out to them. For slightly smaller trees, pole pruners might be the answer. After fighting branches with 10 and 12 foot pruners, I have found the adjustable types far easier to handle. They also come with a saw blade for getting at branches too awkward or too large to cut.
I notice that folks who have a great many older and larger trees are using chain saws for pruning. For larger branches it is a good deal easier and faster, but novices should get the feel of using these saws by practising on fallen branches on the ground first. On ladders, make sure of your stability, and wear safety glasses to protect your eyes.
It is very important to make your cuts with the blade cutting upward to prevent larger branches from tearing the bark as they fall. Always make a cut on the underside first, then move the blade over 1/4 inch (4 mm.) on top to get a clean cut every time.
The only other important thing to remember when cutting branches is to cut them on a shallow angle just above a bud. This will prevent water from seeping in, will prevent die-backs on the branch, and will direct new growth in the direction of the bud.
Remember too to keep all your shears clean by dipping them in a solution of one part Lysol to 10 parts water.
As soon as this current cold spell ends, it will be a great time to begin pruning deciduous trees, shrubs and fruit trees, so clean and sharpen your blades and get out there!
